Cast Aluminium Cold Plate - Two Circuit/Lines
- Size: 26cm x 38cm x 2.5cm Thick
- 6.5kg Aluminium Casting with large thermal mass
- 5 meters OD x 4mm ID diameter per 304 stainless tube
- Includes 4 mounting holes if you want to install your plate
With 20C ambient beer temp and flow rate through the cold plate of 300ml/10 seconds and 70% coverage of ice in contact with the cold plate you will be able to reduce the temperature of the liquid as it exits the cold plate to below 4C with a single pass through this cold plate.
If your beer is warmer than 28C we would recommend either slowing your flow rate through the cold plate or alternatively having the beverage pass through the cold plate twice.
The most common way to use this type of cold plate is to stick it into the bottom of an eksy, drill holes through the esky wall and then glue the cold plate to the floor of the esky with some polyurethane sikaflex. If you do that your esky might look something like this:
If you dont want to drill holes in your esky another optoins is to make a cooler box collar like this. One of our customers was kind enough to show us the collar that he made.
The nice thing about this design is that you dont have to drill holes in the cooler and you can remove the collar and cold plate at a later date.
Made from a thick cast aluminium this plate acts as a large heatsink to absorb heat efficiently from your beer.
This new design of cold plate is made from high conductivity aluminium alloy to aid the heat transfer. In addition to this the new cold plates are made with ribs to aid faster heat transfer.
Inside the casting contains 2 x 304 stainless product lines which are 5.5 meters long and 4mm ID.
The inlets and outlets on the cold plate are the standard mfl threads so they are compatible with the wide range of other fittings that we sell such as swivel nut and barbs or the duotight fittings. You can purchase these separately using the links below.
If you want a whole kit with the cold plate including the actual cooler box/esky itself then you can find this here:
1. Place the cold plate into your cooler box, esky or ice well. If you want to stop the cold plate from moving around then use some polyurethane based glue/sikaflex and this will enable you to stick the cold plate down.
2. Fill the esky/cooler box with ice. Cold plates require the ice to be in contact with the aluminium casting directly so you MUST drain off the water in order for these cold plates to work optimally. (this is different to cooling coils that require and ice water slurry).
3. Set your keg pressure at 20-30psi.
If you get frothing it will generally be caused by one of two things which are easy to solve:
1. If you look at the beer line between the cold plate and your keg (before the beer has gone into the cold plate) and you have bubbles or air pockets in your beer line then your dispence pressure is too low. Increase your pressure at the keg to ensure the CO2 is not coming out of solution.
2. If you measure the measure the temperature of the beverage as it comes out of the tap it should be below 5C. If the temperature is higher than 5C then:
a) Make sure you have complete coverage of ice in the eksy/cooler box
b) Decrease the flow rate of product through the cold plate so you the beverage has more contact time as it passes through the cold plate.
Over Carbonation WARNING:
As these cold plated require considerable dispense pressures (20-30psi) your beer will gradually absorb more carbonation if you are using pure CO2 to dispense the beer especially if your kegs are cold. If you are using CO2 to dispense your keg it will work fine for short periods up to 6-7 hours. If however you cease dispensing then disconnect the kegs and take the additional CO2 out of the head space of the keg before storing the keg. This will prevent additional CO2 absorbing into solution. If you are dispensing the kegs over multiple days we would recommend the use of nitrogen/CO2 mixed gas or straight nitrogen and this will prevent any over carbonation of your beer.
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